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Hermann Buhl 赫尔曼 布尔
他是一个传奇的人，因为他总会在别人失败的成功。
1953年，他沿着南迦帕尔巴特Rakhiot路线首登时，他先在8000米以上的小平台上过了一夜，后来花了41个小时在幻觉中登顶，连滚带爬下山。看上去老了10岁。这次攀登被认为是史上的伟大的壮举。
4年以后，在布洛阿特，他和伙伴给人们展示了登8000米，其实不用大队伍和高山向导。Buhl因为在南迦帕尔巴特受了伤，走得缓慢，于是他让结组的Kurt Diemberger去和Wintersteller and Schmuck结组，三人都登了顶。当Dimberger登顶下撤时，惊奇地发现Buhl还在攀登，他回忆道： Hermann 一步一步，慢慢的向上，时间已经6:30了，这个时间去登顶，肯定是疯了 Diemberger被感动了，陪着Buhl又去登顶 在那里我体会了真正的生活意义 。
几天以后，他们又去试登，在Chogolisa顶峰附近，他掉下一个雪檐，遇难了。直到今天Kurt Diemberger还是觉得非常的遗憾： 太让人难受了，我的朋友瞬间就消失了，真不能相信象他这样个人登过南迦帕尔巴特的人会在这里遇难，我下山时太难受了 。
登山经历：
Badile North East Wall(单人)
Watzmann East Wall(单人，冬季)
Eiger North Face
Nanga Parbat(首登，从C5单人41小时登顶下山)
Broad Peak (首登)
Chogolisa(遇难)
A legend among many climbers, by taking enormous risks Hermann Buhl seeded where others failed.
Soloed the final stage on Nanga Parbats Rakhiot Route during the in 1953, spent the night above 8,000 metres on a tiny ledge, finally returning to the camp after 41 hours he was hallucinating and crawling downwards, looking 10 years older. This climb is now regarded as one of the greatest mountaineering feats of all time.
Four years later, on Broad Peak, he and his partners showed that a 8,000 metre mountain could be climbed without a large team and porters. Buhl was suffering badly from the injuries he got on Nanga Partbat and was ascending extremely slowly during the last section, he sent his rope-companion, Kurt Diemberger ahead to ch up with the other rope-team, Wintersteller and Schmuck, they reached the summit together.
While descending Dimberger found it surprising that Buhl was still ascending. - "Hermann kept coming up, slowly, step by step, his face drawn, his eyes straight ahead. It was close on half past six. Surely it was madness to go on to the summit now?". Diemberger, spellbound by Buhls determination, accompanied him back to the summit. - "ahead of us gleamed a radiance, enfolding every wish life could conjure, enfolding life itself. Now was the moment of ineffable truth... this was utter fulfillment... There we stood, speechless, and shook hands in silence. We looked down at the snow underfoot, and to our amazement it seemed to be aglow. Then the light went out."
Some days later they attempted Chogolisa, but it was Buhls last mountain, near the summit he fell through a cornice to his death.
Today, Kurt Diemberger, himself a legend, still finds it hard to talk about the accident: - "It was a terrible experience because all of a sudden my friend had disappeared.... and ya... I could never believe that something like this could ever happen to Hermann Buhl. He had just climbed Nanga Parbat solo and... ...It was a very, very hard way down Chogolisa."
This was by far Buhls only famous climbs, since a young boy he had always pushed himself to the limit and had made a lot of spectacular climbs in the , often solo, being a breath away from death. Reading his biography, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage you can almost read between the lines what was waiting for him in the end - and he knew it!
SELECTED CLIMBS
Mattherhorn (traverse, solo)
Badile North East Wall (solo)
Watzmann East Wall (first solo, first winter ascent)
Eiger North Face
Nanga Parbat (first ascent. 41 hours solo push from camp V)
Broad Peak (first ascent)
Chogolisa (fell through a cornice near the summit)
Badile峰
Watzmann峰
Chogolisa峰 |
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发表于 2019-4-13 21:00:17